Woven fabric



July 8, 1930. l. E. HELLER 1,770,134

WOVEN FABR I C Filed Dec. 18, 1928 v 2 Sheets-Sheet l July 8, 1930. l. EHELLER 1,770,134

WOVEN FABRIC Filed Dec. 18, 1928 2 Sheets$heet 2 Patented July 8, 1930 1770 134 a UNITED STATES, PATENT :o Fm i i I ISRAEL E. iInLLn' a, OFBarium, new Yo itir, i V

WOVEN r'ABRro 7 Application filed December'18,1928. Serial 7N0. i

The objects of this invention are to provide is a source of largeexpense to manufacturers a fabric with means at the edges thereof for ofgarments, since in many cases thepartsof indicating the directions inwhich the filling the cloth become distorted to such an extent threadsof the fabric extend at intervals that they cannot be used inthemanufacture lengthwise of the fabric; also to improve of a garment,without having the garment 5:,

woven fabrics in other respects hereinafter itself misshaped ordistorted.

specified.- V y i Investigations as to the cause of this Inthejaccompanying drawings: jumping has disclosed the fact that it is i,Fig. 1 is a face view of a portion of a strip duemainly to unequalstresses in the cloth 1c of woven fabric embodying this invention.caused by the cross orf lling threads extend- 60 Fig. 2 is .a face Viewof similar fabric ing in diiferentangles in diiierentparts of foldedover along the line midway-between the cloth. In order to prevent thisjump the selvages of the fabric. g of p ts ofthe clo h af r utting,- heFig. 3:is a face view. of a length of a piece cloth must be-woven withthe filling threads '1 of woven fabric,- the view being providedextending exactly at right angles to thelon- 65 In the manufa ture ofgarn1 nts,'such as process knownas tentering to which the aft tting Thel th from which two sired distance apart depending upon the P 5 Withcertain kinds of cloth this jump the cloth through a drying apparatusand if with lines to indicate the directions of the gitudinal or;warpthreads. In. mostlooins (frogs or filli th d fth fabrig now used,this condition canbe easily con Fi 4 i a i f th f bri how i plied withbutwoolen or-worsted fabric must Fig. 3 when foldedon a lineapproximately be subjected to other processes after weav- 2 midwaybetweentheselvages. ing, whichprocesses tend to stretchthe cloth 70Fig.5 is a face view of two corresponding at various points or edges, orto shrink-the portions of a garment'cut from fabric having edges atother points so that there is a tendcross threads therein running indifferent diency in the cloth to distortion. p 1 rections. Cloth isfrequently distorted during the suits from woolen or worsted fabrics,trouble cloth is Subjected shr n g @1 6 Same is freq entlyf xp i d afterthe c ttin f give the same the desired, uniform width.

the cloth according to. patterns, with the The usual form f t ntcring;111achine-in-- -j11mping..or changing of shape of the" parts eludes twoendless chains spaced at the decorresponding parts of asui-t are out isgenwidth desired, on which chains are mounted erally folded alonga'longitudinal central line plns to whlch the selvages of the cloth are atand incutting the cloth from a pattern, two tached while the cloth isbeingv stretchedto the parts are cut-at thelsame time; desired width.This endless chain carries ing which takes place after the cutting, rehe010th is not attached to thevarious pins s ults in the" two partsassuming different in such a manner so that allcross or filling formsfrom the original pattern. This is threads Xt d 8212601613 fit r gangles '0 th clearly illustrated in Fig. 5 which shows two length of thecloth,-the cloth will be'stretched 40 parts A and A o'f a garment, whichparts on one side and contractedgon-the other. This 90 after cuttingwere separated and then again may occur a number of times in a singlepiece placed one on .top of theother with their of cloth and when suchcloth is thoroughly edges a in alignment." Because of unequal dried, itappears to be straight and it is imstresses in the cloth itself, thesetwo parts possible todjetcct the stretched or contracted n of thegarment assume the 'shapes'indicated portions of the fabric, since thecross or fillalthough both parts were cut from thesame ing threads areusually not clearly visible. pattern and at. the same time and from di-When such cloth is folded along-a longirectly opposite sides .of' thesame piece of tudinal central'line, it mayappear to bepergoods. fectlyeven, but whenparts of the garments This jumping of the cloth.aft'ercutting are cut out of the cloth, these parts will resume theirnatural shapes for the reason that the tension or stretch is released bycutting, and the result is that the cut out parts will not-correspondtolthe pattern from which they are cut, These: conditions are not alwayseliminated by, the fact that the cloth-- ing inanufacturerssubjectithecloth to a steam or water shrinking process'before cutting itintogarments. In many cases this shrinking process will allow the clothtocomeback in its original woven condition, While" wet, but 7 on beingagain drledand folded, there is, 1 again 'a possibility. of the'edgesbecoming distorted, thus leaving; thecloth in the same uncertaincondition in which it left the mill. Figs. 3 and 4 illustrate the mannerin ,whiclrwoolen and worsted-fabrics 'may be distorted. The strip ofcloth B in this case has the filling threads near the upper edgearranged correctly at righ angles to the length of the cloth, asindicated'by thedirection line 10. I 4

i The directionlines'11"immediately below the "top edge'of the clothare'inclined-with reference to'the linelO. The directionlines 12indicates the filling threads extendi'ngfat a "different inclination,and the angles of these threads are again alternately reversed asindicated by thefline's 13 and 14 respectively. If. these lines wereactually present on a'strip of cloth, it could ofcourse bereadilystretched andshrunk to causeall these lines to become parallel, but inplain-colored goods orin goods having small checks ors'tripes runningonly lengthwise, the directions ofthe filling threads. cannot bedeterinined'except at thetwo opposite ends of the cloth.

When clothfof this kind is folded,as is "the 7 custom before thesameiscut, the filling threads will be arranged as shown clearly in Fig.4,; extendingin different directions in" the two folded halves of thecloth; Conse 'quently whenparts of a suit are cutfrom clothof this kind,the threads in thecutparts tend to straighten themselves ou'tXt'o theirnormal positions, thus causing thetwo cut each other, each pair beingarranged at op' posite ends of a filling thread, and these p airs,of'indicatorsa're arranged at intervalslength wise offthe fabric'andspaced sufficiently far apart so that 'the'operative's handling theclothcan readily determine which two indicators at OppQSitesidesOf thecloth belong to the same pair. Thepairswof indicators may be arranged atlonger distances: apart since'it isnot necessry to check-the cloth atvery close intervals in order toprevent distortionintheclothfl i Theseindicators may be provided at opposite ends of the filling threads inany suit able or desired manner. For example, the indicators may beprovided by causing the shuttle carrying the filling thread to travel atcertain intervals through distances slightly beyond the selvage,therebyleaving loops of thread at opposite ends of a single travel orstroke of the shuttle. This operation of the shuttle may be repeated atintervals lengthwise 'oftlie cloth tospace the indicators or loops atthe desired distances apart. In stead of providing a loop indicatorconsist- 'ing of a single; loop, a plurality of loops could be formed ona number of adjacent filling threads, by causing the shuttle on severalsuccessive strokes to leave loopsbeyondthe selvage; Any other means forprovid ing' indicators of this kind at or beyond the selvage ofthe clothmay be used if desired.

In Figs'l and 2,0 represents a length of cloth having a series ofprojecting threads or indicators cextendingbeyondone selvage of theclothand corresponding indicators 0 extendingbeyo'nd the other selvage.- Whenthis cloth is folded along 'alongitudinal central line, theindicatorsc'and 0 will lie -in registration when the filling: threads extendexactly at right angles to the length of the cloth. 20, and 21 represent.the, opposite selvages of the cloth and in Fig.2, 22 representstheufolded. edge thereof. When cloth of this kind isplaced on acentering machine, 7

the operativesc'an readily place the same-on the machine so thatthefilling threadsjextend at right angles to the length by observing theindicators c and cv .on the selvage and positioningthe sameat exactlyopposite portions of the endless chains. Similarly a clothing.1nanufacturer, in placing the cloth on a rollza'fter shrinking,icancompare the positions 1 of; the indicators with relation to guide linesor straight edges on the roll, and

in theleventithat the indicators show incor rect relationship of thefilling threads,:such

condition can be corrected or the cloth rejected for use in garments.v

Bythe-use of cloth of thiskindand by the described process. ofpreventinggzdistorr tion therein by the correct arrangement ofthefilling threads, the jumping of. cloth after cuttingcan be eitherentirely=eliminatedor very materially reduced, thereby effecting a largesaving onthe part of gar- -ment manufacturers, as well, asimproving thequality of the. garments made'from such cloth. 7 Furthermore cloth made;in' accordance withmy invention is=no more expensive to produce thancloth Iheretoforemade, since the determining of the correctness of thefillingthreadscan be done at a glance, while in the step ofv tentering,the indicators facilitate 'thenplacing of th'ecloth on the endlesschains. Cloth provided with these in dicators 'isnot in any waydamagedor injured thereby since in the cutting of the cloth, theportions thereof on which the indicators are formed are not used asparts of the garments.

Claims:

1. A woven fabric having filling threads, some of which have portionsvisible on both sides of the fabric at the side edges thereof toindicate the opposite ends of a filling thread, said projecting portionsbeing arranged at substantial distances from each other, to indicate thedirections in which the filling threads extend.

2. A woven fabric having some of its fill- E ing threads, at substantialdistances lengthwise of the fabric, provided withfportions projectingbeyond the side edges of the fabric at opposite ends of a transverselength of filling thread, to indicate the directions in Which thefilling threads extend.

3. A woven fabric having indicating'parts at the opposite edges thereofat opposite ends of a filling thread and positioned at substantialdistances from each other lengthwise of the fabrio,to indicate thedirections in which the filling threads extend.

i. A woven fabric provided with indicators on the selvedges thereof,said indicators being readily visible from both sides of the cloth andbeing arranged in pairs, the two indicators of a pair being arranged atopposite ends of the same filling thread, each pair of indicators beingspaced from adjacent pairs at substantial distances length wise of thefabric.

5. A woven fabric having selvedges at opposite sides thereof, saidselvedges being provided with clearly visible indicators arranged inpairs, the two indicators of a pair being arranged at opposite ends ofthe same filling thread, to enable the direction of the filling threadto be readily determined.

ISRAEL E. HELLER.

